So, the saddle makes strong positive contact with the sides of I make sure to cut outside of the line so that I can dial it in to match the rounded edges of the saddle slot later. slot are usually rounded because the slot was made by a rotary cutter. More. That way, I'm assured you look at the way the strings bear on the saddle you'll notice that there's a lot Sometimes a prefabricated saddle can be shaped and fit to an instrument. saddle slot to be a bit uneven, and given the choice, I'd like my saddle to fit tightly ends of the saddle slot, that's really just a matter of cosmetics. When a guitar repairer makes one they should be making it bespoke for you so that the specifications match - which is why it’s important that you keep hold of your original one. These are not easy to replace, and are all along its length: However, if the desired sizing and material are unavailable, one must be cut by hand. This will help reduce any binding the might occur as the string moves over the saddle. requires a bit more judgment and effort. If you enjoy this post, you might also like our post about making a bone string nut. What follows is broad overview of the work involved. Do you know someone who’s instrument is in need of some TLC? The saddle will then go back to the sander to have the excess material removed from the bottom. Place it on the bone blank and mark the length of the old saddle onto the blank. Most of the time, I prefer to raise the saddle by replacing it. The work isn’t done yet! The Once my width is about right, I will carefully round the edges of the saddle so that it can pop perfectly into the slot. Here's the subject, a Martin D-18: Besides the obvious effect on the string height, these grooves also move the strings contact point and negatively impact the instruments intonation. If you want the new saddle to be the same height as the old one, mark the height on the blank as well. ends of the blank into both ends of the saddle slot. A guitar saddle is a thin strip of bone, ivory or plastic that is positioned just in front of the bridge pins on acoustic guitars. saddle will obviously have a greater "forward" load on it as a result of Rub the saddle on the sandpaper again, this time to even out the top and bottom. To accomplish this, I use a pencil to draw two lines diagonally across the length of the saddle. A companion to Lowering Action at the Saddle But, since we are compensating this one we have an extra step. about pickup installation, and I won't be covering that in this article.) Then I take off any remaining material necessary to get a snug fit in the saddle slot. Raising the action at the saddle is really just the reverse of lowering it, but it To compensate the saddle, I begin by using a pencil to mark the area between the second and third strings. more height than I'll need" and its ability to hold the saddle upright. I can then take the saddle over to my disc sander to sand the radius into the top. Mark the ends as treble and bass. It's important for me to try both ends of the saddle into the slot, and to try the The second string should leave the saddle a little further back than the first string does. neatly. In this case I am using a piece of bleached bone that I have determined is sufficiently oversized so that we can cut it down to fit my needs. Ideally, it fits tight enough that I need a pair of pliers to lift it out, but just loose enough that I can push it down by hand. bit higher, it may be reasonable to lay a small shim underneath to raise it. the end of the saddle does no harm either structure or tone. Continue to rub it on the sandpaper until it is just thin enough to fit into the notch. This guitar's action is quite a bit too low with the existing saddle, so I'll make The saddle can be Proper setup will not be possible unless this saddle is replaced. The bridge saddle for your guitar is unique. in a slot that cuts through at both ends. length, it will fit so neatly into the slot that any tiny gaps at the ends will disappear. First I find a suitable bone blank. If I were making a traditional non compensated saddle, I would simply round over the edges at this time to make a nice rounded top. Not only does this make the saddle look great, but it also provides a nice smooth surface for the string to rest against. A guitar saddle is a thin strip of bone, ivory or plastic that is positioned just in front of the bridge pins on acoustic guitars. I'll mark the saddle blank to cut off excess, leaving which is considerably oversize in all three dimensions: A flat counter top works just as well as a sanding surface. The rest of the wound strings will then progress backwards, with the sixth string leaving off near the back of the saddle. When it is even with the pencil tracing or mark you made earlier, round the edges down just a bit more for a rounded edge. While I would not recommend that you attempt to cut your own saddle using only this article as a reference, hopefully you will walk away with a better understanding of the meticulous work involved in doing the job properly. Round off the corners of the blank on the sandpaper as well. it is unlikely to have an adverse effect on tone.

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