For the most part this means everything other than neck angle and, assuming the instrument will have a raised fretboard, overstand. We like to see about .007″ of neck relief on nylon-stringed instruments. The “golden ratio” for lowering the action on a bridge saddle of an acoustic instrument is 1:2. You will most likely have to peek inside the soundhole and look inside the body up near the neck heel to see if there is a truss rod and if it can be adjusted. t jb, i Hopefully, we have helped show the steps to getting your instrument playing its best. = A good set up can help you play better instantly and make it a lot more fun to practice and get better. = If your guitar is free of these issues, then we can move on with the setup! n You can check out our article here to learn how to remove and make a new nut for your instrument. For the High E and B string, we like to have about .010″ of clearance. If there is too much relief, adjust it clockwise! l jt e h • Latest American Lutherie article: "Resurrection and Modification of an Inexpensive Old Factory Guitar", American Lutherie #138 Table of Contents, • Latest research article: "Quantifying Player-Induced Intonation Errors of the Steel String Acoustic Guitar". You can use a belt sander or sandpaper attached to a flat surface to sand down the saddle to the lines we marked on the saddle. We are doing this now to help flush out any fret or nut issues that can be taken care of now before we go any further and we can get a string action measurement so we can calculate how much to lower or raise the saddle in the bridge to set the action of the guitar to its optimal height later on in the process. jb 180 Types of Saddles .... you can click on most of the assembly photos on this site to enlarge them for a close look? This generally does not take too many iterations. 2 2, h In that case the calculator can be used to determine what neck angle is needed to achieve that bridge height, and what top doming height is needed to achieve that bridge height, etc. a r You also want to make sure that none of the frets are loose or popping up out of the fret slots. Take your string action gauge and measure the distance between the top of the 12th fret and the bottom of the low and high E strings. Note again that neck angle should be specified in increments that can be accurately cut in wood. The third issue to check out is to see if any of the internal braces have come loose or are damaged. This means that in order to bring the action of the strings down 1/64″, you will need to remove 2/64″ at the saddle to achieve this. 1 t, l = American Lutherie #111 featured an article I wrote about all of the properties of the geometry of the flattop guitar that combine to determine the total height of the bridge and saddle over the surface of the top of the instrument.1 That article included a number of diagrams and all the math needed to make bridge height calculations for most styles of flattop guitar. l r Nylon strings take a little longer to settle in so make sure to really “stretch” them by pulling them up and around with a little force to settle the winds on the tuner pegs. jb We want to adjust the height of the strings at the slot to improve feel, playability, and intonation. r You want to measure from the top of the 1st fret to the bottom of each string with a feeler gauge to get the action at the nut. l t The footprint of the bridge remains the same, but it shows a new bridge with the bridgepins and the saddle both moved - reference the yellow line in the two sketches, above and below. = 2 - This will give you the overall action of the strings. 2, h h b And with the tension of the strings and the environment they are living in, who knows how the neck will look like in a couple of years! Just enter values of zero for action (s) and relief (sr). r - 2 This includes checking the neck where it is glued into the body and the side of the fretboard along the top of the body. the height of the saddle in the bridge the hieght of the frets above the fretboard How we perceive action is also affected by the tension of the strings – the higher the tension, the harder it is to … The second issue you want to check out before you start the setup is to see if there is any structural damage. You can check out our fret level article that shows you step by step how to go about one https://guitaristlab.com/the-fret-level-un-dressed/. Make sure to get the bottom of the saddle flat and square to sit correctly in the bridge. Please check out our previous article here to learn how to restring a nylon-stringed instrument https://guitaristlab.com/how-to-properly-string-a-classical-guitar/. + If you feel there are some internal issues, please take your guitar to a qualified luthier who has the knowledge and experience to make your guitar structurally sound again. r Mottola's Cyclopedic Dictionary of Lutherie Terms is now available here. You can look at the top of the body and see if there are any areas that are sinking down or “bubbling” up. To straighten the neck you want to check how much relief there is first. https://guitaristlab.com/10-steps-to-making-a-new-replacement-nut-for-your-guitar/. Mottola, R.M. A poorly set up instrument can present too much resistance and discouragement. Either way is fine. You raise or lower the saddle by turning the hex screws with a tine hex wrench. l 2 After the new strings are on and stretched with the action and neck adjusted to our liking, we can finally lower the action at the nut and wrap up the setup. n n With the saddle out, we can check the top of it and make sure it has a nice roundish peak for the strings to break over and down into the back of the tie hole in the bridge. So the starting action on this guitar is 12/64″ on the low E or bass side and 10/64″ on the high E or treble side. + And make any final truss rod adjustments, if possible, and any adjustments at the saddle. l For the most part the descriptions of the parameters here are self explanatory, but for all practical purposes you'll need to reference the article for its diagrams and terminology before using this calculator. r, h l, l For the D and G strings, .017″ of clearance above the fret. = b l s, h The formulae for calculating bridge height as a function of the construction geometry of a flattop guitar are: h 2 The part of the bridge height attributable to arching of the top (calculated); The part of the bridge height attributable to elevation of the fretboard (calculated). Now that we checked the frets and made sure we adjusted the neck straight, we can move on to checking the action of the strings to see how much we need to adjust the height at the saddle. Now we’ll use our string height ratio to mark the saddle so we know how much material to take off the bottom in order to get the desired string height. You can cut the old strings off now to get the saddle out or you can loosen the strings to pull the saddle out to adjust the saddle height now before the new strings are installed. If there are loose or uneven frets then they would need to be reseated and glued down. For a more in-depth approach, a small mirror and flashlight can be used to look inside the body for any loose or broken braces. If the slots are too low across most or all of the strings, then the nut will need to be removed and shimmed or a new one will have to be made. r e - r = Of course, this is a comfortable starting point and different guitars and players may require a higher or lower action. n After we get the height of the saddle where we want it you can install it now in the bridge if you decided to keep the old strings on and check the action and playability and make any adjustments now. h Now we can mark the amount of material we’ll need to remove from the saddle.

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